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Tuesday, 7 February 2017

Encapsulated Stencil Rose Nail Design- How to Sculpt a Hard Gel Smileline

Ever have those gels on the shelf that nobody picks and you don't use? Well I have just the thing for you - Encapsulated Stencil Rose Nail Design, this also teaches you how to sculpt with a Hard Gel. 

First of all prepping the nail is important as you will need to have a good base to work with. By prepping the nail you will need to remove the surface shine and do the cuticle work. 

Sculpting the nail is next, we used a nail sculpting form which re really good in giving you the length and shape that you want. We put the form onto the hyponychium and this seals the nail bed and the nail plate together but you need to be very gentle when you do it. 

Now we prime the nail and then use the builder gel to do a lock layer onto the base and this will hold the nice and strong and that i what we want so the nail doesn't break. Lastly, you then pop it into the lamp to cure it (1 min for LED or 2 mins for UV). 

Now to get the length for the nail we use the sculpt gel to bring out the length and by using the forms we can get the length to be as long or short as you want. Whist sculpting the length you start to get the shape of the nail and you will want to get some thickness a long the stress area to avoid any damage. Lastly, you then pop it into the lamp to cure it (1 min for LED or 2 mins for UV).

In the video we show some wipes called meltblown wipes which are amazing for gel. Put some gel residue wipe off solution onto the wipes to and you can use that to keep everything nice and neat on the brush. These wipes don't have fibers in them and that means you wont find any stray bits in your gels. 

Whilst the sculpting gels cool, pinch the sides of the forms together using a pinching tool and when it has hardened up remove the tool and then carefully take the sculpting form off as its really thin.

Now for the next stage, we are going to use our gel colours. Gel colours are amazing to encapsulate with acrylic and gel. And to start off with, we are going to use two thin coats of a silver sparkly polish coats on the free edge and only the free edge. Lastly, you then pop it into the lamp to cure it (1 min for LED or 2 mins for UV). 

The glitter underneath the nail is an absolutely perfect statement! Its like a sparkly version of the bottom of a Louboutin. 

Now we are going to use the builder gel and put a thin layer over the top and start to build at the point and you then pop it into the lamp to cure it (1 min for LED or 2 mins for UV) so it will self level and this will make it smoother. 

For the next application, you will need to use a pinching tool to pinch the nail whilst it's cooling and once it is cooled, remove the tool and the wipe over the nail to get rid pf ant residue.

Next you will need to file the nail before we do the next part. When filing gel you have to remember that gel is softer to file. Then we are going to use a pink colour gel on the nail bed and when doing this you should point the finger down so the gel runs away from the cuticle. 

For this next stage, we are using a gorgeous pillar box red and we are going to put two coats of this over the top of the silver sparkly polish and then use the builder gel to go over the red keeping it quite thin. 

Now using the backing paper from a sculpting form and apply a small amount of black polish to the paper and using a thin brush 
and apply a simple rose stencil to the red part of the nail. You do this by drawing a small comma (,) like shape to the nail and wrap these shapes into the nail and fill in the small gaps. And then cure it.

You can only do these shaped with a black that is really pigmented and the Urban Graffiti is really really pigmented. 

The nail should look all pretty with the simple rose stencil. And now we get the sculpting gel and we roll that over the nail and then this will encapsulate the design making it look like its been encased into glass - gorgeous. And then cure it. 

Now, bare in mind that the gel is very soft when you file it and smooth it over with a white block then clean the nail up with gel residue. Then top coat the nail so its all shiny and gorgeous again and then cure it. 

Lastly, finish it off with some cuticle oil. 

All the products used in the video and what I've mentioned in the blog are available on the Naio Nails website and instore.